Southern Fried Chicken

By Robert Wallack

Her name was Lillian, of that I’m reasonably certain. And everyone called her Miss Lillian, though that may be just a little bit of romantic embellishment intertwined with my 20-year-old recollections. In any case, she was the kitchen matriarch at Bob the Chef’s soul food restaurant on Columbus Avenue in Boston’s South End, of that there is no dispute. And she taught me how to cook fried chicken and collard greens.

Actually, Miss Lillian didn’t really teach me anything, but rather affirmed what I already suspected. But still, her recipe secrets, revealed in a chance and brief after-hours encounter when I was picking up an order to go and allowed back into the kitchen one day, gave me an added measure of confidence at the stove.

I’m a voracious food reader, especially when I have a particular fascination with some food or cooking technique. And fried chicken – southern fried chicken – has always held a particular allure. Maybe it was my upbringing; the only chicken I ever ate was on Friday night at my grandmother’s house for Sabbath dinner. It was roasted. That’s the best I can say for it, even though she was a great cook. Chicken wasn’t her forte. Chicken soup, yes. Chopped chicken liver, without question. But roast chicken, well, let’s just say it was a place-holder on the plate in between the potato kugle and the carrots.

As soon as I was off to college and out on my own, I tried my hand at fried chicken and in the years hence, I’d read everything I could find, seeking out “authentic” recipes.

It seems there were as many variations as there were southern cookbook writers. Deep fried, pan fried, pressure fried, batter-dipped, flour coated and on and on and on. Over the years, I settled on a recipe of my own, gleaned from all my readings. My rendition is lightly dusted with seasoned flour and pan fried in a cast-iron skillet using a combination of butter and vegetable oil in equal parts.

And, as I subsequently learned, just like Miss Lillian’s. As for the collards, I was on the right track, too. But Miss Lillian straightened me out some. Instead of a piece of ham, it’s a ham hock that should be added to the pot. A little fattier and more flavorful. And a pinch of crushed red pepper, to bring that little tickle to the back of the throat. Oh, and don’t forget a dash of vinegar to the pot and a little sugar to balance the acid.

Bob the Chef’s was purchased by a new owner back in the ‘90s shortly after my encounter with Miss Lillian. I know she stayed on for a time, but in the years since, I moved to Maine, and never made it back there. Last November, the restaurant closed its doors after a 50-year run. I don’t know what happened to Miss Lillian, but her smile and her wisdom are with me whenever I break out the cast iron skillet to fry up a batch of chicken.

 

SOUTHERN FRIED CHICKEN

For good results it’s essential to use a 2 ½- to 3 ½- pound frying chicken. A larger bird will take too long to cook and will toughen in the process. Buy a whole chicken and learn how to cut it up. All it takes is a sharp kitchen knife or even a large pair of utility scissors.
It’s easy, and any basic cookbook will explain how in detail. Starting with a whole chicken is much cheaper than buying pre-cut pieces and it tastes better. It only stands to reason that with pre-cut pieces, much of the natural juices – and flavor – are lost.

Ingredients
1 2 1/2- to 3 1/2-pound chicken cut into eight pieces
1 cup all purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespon freshly ground pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1. Wash chicken pieces and pat dry thoroughly with paper towel.

2. Combine flour, salt and pepper in a large paper or plastic bag and shake to mix well.

3. Toss chicken pieces in flour mixture until well coated.

4. Heat 10- to 12-inch cast iron or heavy-bottomed skillet over medium/high heat. Add butter and oil and bring to the point of fragrance. Add chicken pieces, skin side down. Do not overcrowd pan or chicken will not brown and crisp. Make in batches or use two pans if necessary.

5. Cook over medium/high heat for 4-5 minutes or until brown and then turn and repeat. Reduce heat to medium/low and continue cooking partially covered and turning chicken every 15 minutes, for approximately 45 minutes or until done. Take care not to reduce the heat too low, or chicken will absorb the fat and become soggy, but keep an eye on the pan so the chicken doesn’t scorch.

6. Drain on a rack set over a shallow baking sheet and keep warm in a 200 degree oven until ready to serve.

Makes 2-4 servings.